Prices incl. VAT plus shipping costs
Ready to ship,
Delivery time 2-5 workdays (Germany),
appr. 5-14 workdays (EU),
appr. 14-50 workdays (International)
- Order number: KC10071_BK
This is the Rev2.1 of the Plaid-Pad pcb.
More info's in the changelog below.
A top plate (FR4 material) is included, to align the switches (support for 3pin and 5pin switches).
- VIA Configurator support, easy customize keymap without coding,compiling or flashning (more informations here)
- The rotary encoder are assign to F17-F24 and you can customize the behavior with Karabiner-Elements (OSX) or AutoHotkey (WIN)
- If you don't like the aditional software, you can customize all keys and rotary encoder with the QMK firmware
- Black kit has a gold plated pcb and brass slotted screws
- White kit has a silvery plated pcb and stainless steel screws (T6 Torx)
- USB-C connector
- MX, Choc and ChocV2 switch support (issue with ChocV2 switch see changelog)
- Supports up to 4 Rotary Encoder (top row, or right column)
- Positions for the Rotary Encoder are interchangeable with switches
- Only through-hole parts
- ATMEGA328P MCU
- QMK Firmware (keymap files)
- Great companion to the Plaid keyboard
This is the pre installed keymap for the Plaid-Pad.
You can find more informations on the QMK Firmware Keymap site.
The USB-C connector is a bit difficult to solder. I can do it for you.
"Soldering service for USB-C connector"
- Top, mid and bottom pcb (choose color)
- 2mm clear acrylic guard plate (has bluish protection film)
- Solder parts with pre flashed Atmega328 (USBaspLoader and QMK firmware with VIA support)
- Spacer and screws (white kit: stainless steel with T6 Torx, black kit: brass slotted screws)
- Rubber feeds
You also need:
- 16x switches (3pin, or 5pin)
- Optional: rotary encoder (0-4x)
- USB-C cable
- Slotted screwdriver (black variant) T6 Torx screwdriver (white variant)
- Soldering iron
Files for a simple 3d printable case, drawings for the guard plate and dampening foam are available here.
Photos of the completed kit are for demonstration purposes only.
Please note that this kit must be assembled (soldering) and does not include switches or keycaps.
- Bigger solder pads for the USB-C connector (a bit easier to solder)
- Support for Choc V2 switches (issue that the keycap touch the mounting screw, if bottoming out)
- Changed case mounting style (spacer go through the pcb and screwed on the top and bottom plate)
- Pcb's with the label Rev1.1 are Rev2 (fixed with the second ordered batch)
- Optional: up to 4 Rotary Encoder
- Support for 3pin switches with the new top plate
- Add a small PLAID-PAD text beneath the USB-C connector
- Initial pcb design
- Optional up to 2 Rotary Encoder
With the software "Plaid Pad MIDI" (by Mitchell van Manen), you can use the Plaid-Pad as a Midi device.
Das Pad ist für sich alleine schon super, lässt sich alles ohne weiteres programmieren und sieht einfach mega aus.
Ich persönlich finde als QMK und VIA Neuling die Encoder Programmierung ein wenig verwirrend, aber an sich ist alles soweit super.
Vor allem muss aber der Support hier gelobt werden.
Ich hatte beim Verlöten Widerstände miteinander vertauscht und der Support hat sehr schnell, ausführlich und echt nett geantwortet.
Mir kommt auf jeden Fall noch ein Pad nach Hause
I ordered 2 of the 2.1 Rev Plaid Pads and i love them. The instructions for soldering are easy to follow and well described. I particularly like the fact the instructions tell you which colour code the resistors should have, in case you cant remember which one you currently have in your hand or you have a few unlabeled resistors in your kit (which happened in my case).
If you are new and scared that you might ruin your type c port, you can always pay little extra for the soldering service. Otherwise its pretty easy if you use some flux (i used a no clean flux pen)
The 2.1 Revision has a FR4 switch plate so the wonky switches mentioned in Thierry's review isn't an issue anymore. I personally added some MillMax 0305 sockets to make it hot-swappable, so if anyone thought about doing this, now you know it works.
I equipped mine with 4 encoders on the right side each and they work flawlessly. Its my first time working with encoders, and programming them can seem a little confusing at first. I used the AutoHotkey program to program mine, and in my case i found a lot of the code prewritten on some forums. All i had to do was copy and paste the code into a notepad.
All in all this is a great purchase, it comes well packaged, with good instructions online. Easy to solder and easy to program. It looks amazing and am very happy with it. I can only recommend it. It looks particularly good in combination with a plaid or a discipline.
Great build for beginners
This was a perfect level for a first build. Not too difficult but still challenging enough to make you feel more comfortable with soldering. Like stated above make sure that you have 5-pin switches since there isn't a top plate.
Ben has been awesome throughout this whole time. Any questions I had he was very responsive and very helpful. Great products, great seller!
Very enjoyable first build. the guide helps not to feel too lost
I really enjoyed the build. Everything is pretty well labeled, or if it's not labeled, then there is no confusion (thinking about the Zhener diodes, that are not labeled but only have the symbol)
The wiki page guides you well, but I felt a bit lost when I reached the switch soldering.
All my switches only had 3 "prongs" (feet?) and as a result, the keys are a bit wonky and not that well aligned.
I suppose that's why there are switches with 5 prongs, to keep them well aligned.
I am not complaining that it's not indicated on the shop page, but a simple "recommended" link to switches could have cleared the case, especially for a beginner.
Also, the USB C gave me some difficulties, but bad eyesight and shaky hands didn't helped.
I would have liked the option to use a full Arduino with an already soldered USB port.
My usual soldering iron (ts100) was way to wide to solder that... I had to find an iron with a smaller tip, and I was unsure if I had a short circuit, but as I could not remove it, I tried to power the keypad and it was ok.
So, it looks like there are traces between the left and right most pins to the ground.
I am now looking how to flash a custom qmk firmware, as I want to have a second layer and some macros available.
I still haven't found how, that's unfortunate that the wiki doesn't cover that part.
It's like the reset / boot button. Reset I understand, but what purpose the boot button have?
It's a mystery for me.