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- Order number: KC10071_BK
This is the Rev2 of the Plaid-Pad Pcb and supports up to 4 Rotary encoder (top row, or right column).
A top plate (FR4 material) is included, to align the switches (support for 3pin and 5pin switches).
- VIA Configurator support, easy customize keymap without coding,compiling or flashning (more informations here)
- The rotary encoder are assign to F17-F24 and you can customize the behavior with Karabiner-Elements (OSX) or AutoHotkey (WIN)
- If you don't like the aditional software, you can customize all keys and rotary encoder with the QMK firmware
- Black kit has a gold plated pcb and brass slotted screws
- White kit has a silvery plated pcb and stainless steel screws (T6 Torx)
- USB-C connector
- MX and Choc switch support
- Top left and top right can be replaced with a rotary encoder
- Only through-hole parts
- ATMEGA328P a controller
- QMK Firmware
- Great companion to the Plaid keyboard
This is the pre installed keymap for the Plaid-Pad.
You can find more informations on the QMK Firmware Keymap site.
The USB-C connector is a bit difficult to solder. I can do it for you.
"Soldering service for USB-C connector"
- Top, mid and bottom pcb (choose color)
- 2mm clear acrylic guard plate (has bluish protection film)
- Solder parts with pre flashed Atmega328 (USBaspLoader and QMK firmware with VIA support)
- Spacer and screws (white kit: stainless steel with T6 Torx, black kit: brass slotted screws)
- Rubber feeds
You also need:
- 16x switches
- Optional: rotary encoder (0-4)
- USB-C cable
Some Pcb's have the wrong revision number (Rev1.1) on it. Don't worry these are Rev2 Pcb's.
Files for a simple 3d printable case, drawings for the guard plate and dampening foam are available here.
With the software "Plaid Pad MIDI" (by Mitchell van Manen), you can use the Plaid-Pad as a Midi device.
Great build for beginners
This was a perfect level for a first build. Not too difficult but still challenging enough to make you feel more comfortable with soldering. Like stated above make sure that you have 5-pin switches since there isn't a top plate.
Ben has been awesome throughout this whole time. Any questions I had he was very responsive and very helpful. Great products, great seller!
Very enjoyable first build. the guide helps not to feel too lost
I really enjoyed the build. Everything is pretty well labeled, or if it's not labeled, then there is no confusion (thinking about the Zhener diodes, that are not labeled but only have the symbol)
The wiki page guides you well, but I felt a bit lost when I reached the switch soldering.
All my switches only had 3 "prongs" (feet?) and as a result, the keys are a bit wonky and not that well aligned.
I suppose that's why there are switches with 5 prongs, to keep them well aligned.
I am not complaining that it's not indicated on the shop page, but a simple "recommended" link to switches could have cleared the case, especially for a beginner.
Also, the USB C gave me some difficulties, but bad eyesight and shaky hands didn't helped.
I would have liked the option to use a full Arduino with an already soldered USB port.
My usual soldering iron (ts100) was way to wide to solder that... I had to find an iron with a smaller tip, and I was unsure if I had a short circuit, but as I could not remove it, I tried to power the keypad and it was ok.
So, it looks like there are traces between the left and right most pins to the ground.
I am now looking how to flash a custom qmk firmware, as I want to have a second layer and some macros available.
I still haven't found how, that's unfortunate that the wiki doesn't cover that part.
It's like the reset / boot button. Reset I understand, but what purpose the boot button have?
It's a mystery for me.