- Black kit has a gold plated pcb and brass slotted screws
- White kit has a silvery plated pcb and stainless steel screws (T6 Torx)
- USB-C connector
- MX and Choc switch support
- Top left and top right can be replaced with a rotary encoder
- Only through-hole parts
- ATMEGA328P a controller
- QMK Firmware
- Great companion to the Plaid keyboard
This is the pre installed keymap for the Plaid-Pad.
You can find more informations on the QMK Firmware Keymap site.
The USB-C connector is a bit difficult to solder. I can do it for you.
Send me a mail after you ordered.
- Mid and bottom pcb (choose color)
- 2mm clear acrylic guard plate (has bluish protection film)
- solder parts with pre flashed Atmega328
- brass spacer and screws (white kit: stainless steel with T6 Torx, black kit: brass slotted screws)
- rubber feeds
You also need:
- 16x switches (5pins for the alignment)
- optional rotary encoder
- USB-C cable
Files for a simple 3d printable case and drawings for the guard plate and dampening foam are available here.
With the software "Plaid Pad MIDI" (by Mitchell van Manen), you can use the Plaid-Pad as a Midi device.
Very enjoyable first build. the guide helps not to feel too lost
I really enjoyed the build. Everything is pretty well labeled, or if it's not labeled, then there is no confusion (thinking about the Zhener diodes, that are not labeled but only have the symbol)
The wiki page guides you well, but I felt a bit lost when I reached the switch soldering.
All my switches only had 3 "prongs" (feet?) and as a result, the keys are a bit wonky and not that well aligned.
I suppose that's why there are switches with 5 prongs, to keep them well aligned.
I am not complaining that it's not indicated on the shop page, but a simple "recommended" link to switches could have cleared the case, especially for a beginner.
Also, the USB C gave me some difficulties, but bad eyesight and shaky hands didn't helped.
I would have liked the option to use a full Arduino with an already soldered USB port.
My usual soldering iron (ts100) was way to wide to solder that... I had to find an iron with a smaller tip, and I was unsure if I had a short circuit, but as I could not remove it, I tried to power the keypad and it was ok.
So, it looks like there are traces between the left and right most pins to the ground.
I am now looking how to flash a custom qmk firmware, as I want to have a second layer and some macros available.
I still haven't found how, that's unfortunate that the wiki doesn't cover that part.
It's like the reset / boot button. Reset I understand, but what purpose the boot button have?
It's a mystery for me.